Woven elastic fabric



Jan. 6, 1942. L. DE ROON WOVEN ELASTIC FABRIC Filed Oct. 2'7, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR 7 Laws D1: Rea/v BYE: 8 z

ATTORNEY Jan. 6, 1942. DE ROON 1 9 WOVEN ELASTIC FABRIC Filed 001;. 27, 1938 2 Shets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR LOU/J D5 Roo/v Abba ATTORNEY Patented Jan. 6, 1942 Louis De Roon, Ridgewood, N. LL, assignofto; Blue Bird Silk Mfg. Co. Inc., New York, N.Y.,'a--'corporat-ion of New J ersey Application 0ctober'27, 1938, Serial No.'237=,268

6 Claims.

This invention relates to woven fabrics and more particularly to woven fabrics which are elastic and which are intended primarily for use in wearing apparel. More specifically,-the. fabrics of the present. invention as hereinafter described are especially suitable for usefas the fabrics of bathing suits.

Heretofore, it has been Very difficult, if not impossible, to produce woven elastic, fabrics which are characterized by softness, suppleness, and drapability and which also possess a proper :degree of firmness of the weave, that'is a weave of such character as to provide high resistance to slippage of the warp and weft threads and to securely hold stitching when parts of the fabric are stitched together in producing .a garment or other article of wearing apparel or for other purposes. One object of the present invention is to produce a woven elastic fabric whichissoft or supple :and which is also characterized by the substantial firmness thereof.

As heretofore constructed, woven elastic fabrics have varied in appearance or in other words have lacked uniformity of appearance in the same piece, especially in elastic fabrics whichare soft or supple. I attribute this defect to the fact that the elastic or rubber threads utilized in producing woven elastic fabrics are in themselves not uniform with respect to different threads and'even with respect to different portions of the same threads, and I have discovered that; this defect can be obviated by weaving the fabric in such manner as to provide a multiplicity of points of resistance to the full contraction. of the elastic threads, that is the return of the elastic threads from their tensioned and stretched conditionin which they are woven to their contracted condition inthe finished; fabric when they are released from extraneous tension. In the fabrics of the present invention, the elastic threads in the finished fabric are in slightly tensionedrand slightly stretchedcondition and are heldin that condition by a multiplicity of points" of resistance introduced in the fabric by weaving the same in accordance with the present inven-' tion. More specifically, the multiplicity of'points of resistance to the full contraction of the elastic threads is provided in accordance with themesent invention by arranging some of the warp threads in crossed relation with others of the warp threads, said warp threads being in engagement with each other at the crossings and thereby providing the proper: amount of resistance necessary toprevent the full contraction of the elastic threads in slightlytensioned condition in the finished fabric. This; constitutes another object of the invention and from one pointof' view may be considered as ancillary to the-above stated object of the invention.

The nature and character of fabrics of the present invention will be more fully understood from thefollowing description considered with reference to the accompanying drawings.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a planview, on an enlarged scale of a piece of fabric embodying the present inven-.

tion;

Fig-2 is a diagram of the weave of thefabric illustratedv in'Fig. 1;

Fig. -3 .is a view "similar to Fig. 1 showing a fabric which is somewhat different in appearance from the fabric-shown in:Fig.;1,;

Fig. 4 is a diagram of the'weave of the fabric illustrated in Fig. 3;

Referring now to the .drawings in detaiL-the fabric, I0 embodying the. present inventionGomprises groups l2uof inelastic warpqthreads and groups M of weft threads, some of which 3 are elastic and others of which are inelastic. Referring to Fig. 2 of' the :drawings which is ;.a diagrammatic viewiof the .weave 10f the fabric, itwill be observed that the warpthreads are arranged in .groups and that some of said warp threads of each group cross the other warp threads at a plurality of points along each of .a plurality of linesspaced from each otherinthe direction. of the warp of the fabric and. extending Weft-wise between the groups M of the weft threads. Thus, as clearlyshown in Fig.2, the warp threads" I211. cross the warp threads-l2b at a plurality of points along each ofv a plurality of lines running'weft-wise between the adjacent weft threads l6 of two groups I4 of saidweft threads. Further is will'be observed :that said warp threads -I2a and I2!) are interwovenwith weft-threads of each group I4, preferably.in such manner that some of said warp threads float over all of the weft threads'of the group while others of said warpthreads float over several but not all of the weft threads of the same group. By thus floating the warp threads overseveral of the weft threads in each group, the fabric elastic threads, 'or'inother words to:hold::.the: 5 5

' The groups l4 of weft threads com-prise inelastic threads. [Sand elastic'threads l8. Said elastic threads I8 may be of any of the types-of elastict-hreads which'are readily availableon the market andwhic'h, customarily, are-composed of filaments "of rubber covered with Y textile yarn.

threads l2, there is preferably utilized in the loom a leno or doup by means of which said warp threads are crossed at regular intervals as described above and as illustrated in the drawings.

It will be understood further that as the fabric comes off the loom the extraneous tension on the weft threads, including the elastic threads 18, is removed with the result that the fabric contracts in width or weft-wise to the desired size of the fabric in the finished state thereof. As previously explained, however, the elastic threads I8 are not fully contracted but are maintained by the weave of the fabric and more particularly by the multiplicity ofthe crossings of the warp threads, in slightly stretched and slightly tensioned condition. It will be under stood that while in Fig. 2 the crossings of the warp threads are shown spaced from each other and while the adjacent weft threads [6 of the groups M of the weft threads are shown spaced from each other, this is only for the sake oi clearness of illustration, and that in the finished fabric, on the contrary, the crossings of the warp threads in the same weft-wise line are close to each other, and the groups of weft threads lie close to each other, with the result that only very small openings are present in each weftwise line of crossings in the warp threads in the finished fabric and that said openings are barely discernible unless the fabric is held up to the light, in which case said openings between the crossings are somewhat more plainly visible. The fabric as thus produced has a high degree of softness or suppleness and yet is of uniform appearance and is characterized by substantial firmness in that it is well adapted to securely hold stitching and to resist slippage between warp and weft threads. The fabric is further characterized by the presence of a short pile on the face of the fabric produced by short loops formed in the inelastic weft threads 16 when the elastic threads I8 are in their contracted condition in the finished fabric. The fabrichas a ribbed appearance in the weft.

As indicated above, the fabric may comprise various yarns in the warp and in the weft, and the size and character of the threads of the warp and the weft may vary. However, describing fabric I more specifically as the same has been produced in accordance with the present invention, said fabric comprises in the warp a 20 reed weave and four ends of 3-ply 100 denier Bemberg yarn of approximately 12 turns per inch, to each dent of the reed. In the filling there are 64 picks per inch of 60/2 cotton and of T-9-3 Lastex, the filling arrangement as shown in Fig. 2 including in succession 1 pick of cotton, 1 pick of Lastex (or any other suitable elastic thread),

2 picks of cotton, 1 pick of Lastex, and 2 picks of cotton, the last mentioned 2 picks being ar-- ranged one on each side of an intermediate weftwise line of crossings of the warp threads. The fabric is approximately 50 inches in the reed and approximately 20 inches after it is removed from the loom and completely finished pursuant to the usual methods of producing finished woven fabrics. It will be understood that the width of the fabric may vary, for example, it may be within the range of about 45 to 55 inches in the reed and about 22 to 34 inches when completely finished.

In the form of the invention illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4, the weave of the fabric is, as illustrated in Fig. 4, somewhat different from the weave of the fabric 10 illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2, although it will be observed by referring to Fig. 4 that the fabric 20 includes warp threads which cross each other at a plurality of points along each of a plurality of lines spaced from each other in the direction of the warp of the fabric and extending weft-wise between adjacent weft threads. Thus as here shown, the warp threads Y 22 are arranged in groups and that certain of the other warp-wise of the fabric. In each group 24,

of weft threads there are inelastic threads 26 and elastic threads 28. The manner in which the warp threads are interwoven with the weft threads of each group is clearly illustrated in Fig. 4 and it will be observed that some of the warp threads float over all of the weft threads of one group, while other warp threads are more tightly interwoven with weft threads of the same group. The materials of which the warp and weft threads of fabric 20 are composed maybe any suitable materials as stated above in reference to the fabric I0 illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2. Specifically, in fabric 20 the warp is also preferably composed of threads of Bemberg yarn of denier 12 turns per inch, but each thread is of 4- ply yarn. As in the case of fabric ID, a 20 reed is preferably utilized. In the filling there are also 64 picks per inch of 60/2 cotton and of T-9-3 Lastex. However, as illustrated in Fig. 4 the filling arrangement is somewhat different than the filling arrangement of fabric l0.- Thus referring to Fig. 4, fabric 20 comprises in the weft in succession two picks of cotton, 1 pick of Lastex (or any other suitable elastic thread) 2 picks of cotton, 1 pick of Lastex, 2 picks of cotton, 1 pick of Lastex and 4 picks of cotton, said last mentioned 4 picks of cotton being arranged in 2 picks each at opposite sides of the same intermediate weft-wise line of crossings of the warp threads. This fabric also has a ribbed appearance in the weft as in the case of fabric l0, but has a less pronounced pile surface or terry effect than fabric l0.

While I have described and illustrated two specific fabric constructions embodying the principles of the present invention, it willbe understood that numerous other fabrics embodying the present invention may be produced. Accordingly,

I do not wish to be limited precisely to the fabrics herein specifically described, or to either one of said fabrics, or to any other fabric of specific construction, except as may be required by the scope of the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:" 1. A woven fabric consisting of warp threads. and weft threads, said weft threads being ar-' ranged in a plurality of groups, said groups being spaced from each other longitudinally of the fabric, said warp threads being interwoven with said weft threads, all of said warp threads being arranged in groups, each of said groups of warp I threads consisting of a plurality of threads, each of said warp threads being crossed by a plurality of others of said warp threads in each of the spaces between adjacent groups of weft threads, the crossing portions of all of said warp threads extending laterally of the fabric in said spaces, and being arranged in groups, said groups of crossing warp thread portions being disposed laterally of each other in the direction of the weft of the fabric, said warp threads being inelastic and at least some of said weft threads in each group being elastic and stretchable and contractible in the fabric.

2. A woven fabric consisting of weft threads and inelastic warp threads, said weft threads being arranged in a plurality of groups, said groups being spaced from each other longitudinally of the fabric, said warp threads being interwoven with said Weft threads, all of said warp threads being arranged in groups, each of said groups of warp threads consisting of a plurality of threads, each of said warp threads being crossed by a plurality of others of said warp threads in each of the spaces between adjacent groups of weft threads, the crossing portions of all of said warp threads extending laterally of the fabric in said spaces, and being arranged in groups, said groups of crossing warp thread porstretchable and contractible in the fabric, and

the other of said weft threads being inelastic.

3. A woven fabric consisting of weft threads and inelastic warp threads, said weft threads being arranged in a plurality of groups, said groups being spaced from each other longitudinally of the fabric, said warp threads being interwoven with said weft threads, all of said warp threads being arranged in groups, each of said groups of warp threads consisting of a plurality of threads, each of said warp threads being crossed by a plurality of others of said warp threads in each of the spaces between adjacent groups of weft threads, the crossing portions of all of said warp threads extending laterally of the fabric in said spaces, and being arranged in groups, said groups of crossing warp thread portions being disposed laterally of each other in the direction of the weft of the fabric, some of said weft threads in each group being elastic and stretchable and contractible in the fabric, and the other of said weft threads being inelastic, said inelastic weft threads having a multiplicity threads consisting of a plurality of threads, each of said warp threads being crossed by a plurality of others of said warp threads in each of the spaces between adjacent groups of weft threads, the crossing portions of all of said warp threads extending laterally of the fabric in said spaces, and being arranged in groups, said groups of crossing warp thread portions being disposed laterally of each other in the direction of the weft of the fabric, said warp threads being inelastic and at least some of said weft threads in each group being elastic and stretchable and contractible in the fabric, said elastic weft threads being partially stretched and under. tension in their normally contracted condition in the fabric,

5. A woven fabric consisting of warp threads and weft threads, said weft threads being arranged in a plurality of groups, said groups being spaced from each other longitudinally of the fabric, said warp threads being interwoven with said weft threads, all of said'warp threads being arranged in groups, each of said groups of warp threads consisting of a plurality of threads, each of said warp threads being crossed by a plurality of others of said warp threads in each of the spaces between adjacent groups of weft threads, the crossing portions of all of said warp threads extending laterally of the fabric in said spaces, and being arranged in groups, said groups of crossing warp thread portions being disposed laterally of each other in the direction of the weft of the fabric, said warp threads being inelastic and at least some of said weft threads in each group being elastic and stretchable and contractible in the fabric, said groups of crossing portions of said warp threads lying close to each other in the fabric when said elastic weft threads are in contracted condition.

6. A woven fabric consisting of warp threads and weft threads, said weft threads being arranged in a plurality of groups, said groups being spaced from each other longitudinally of the of loops therein when said elastic weft threads are in contracted condition in the fabric.

4. A woven fabric consisting of warp threads and weft threads, said weft threads being arfabric, said warp threads being interwoven with said weft threads, all of said warp threads being arranged in groups, each of said groups of warp threads consisting of a plurality of threads, each of said warp threads being crossed by a plurality of others of said warp threads in each of the spaces between adjacent groups of weft threads, the crossing portions of all of said warp threads extending laterally of the fabric in said spaces, and being arranged in groups, said groups of crossing warp thread portions being disposed laterally of each other in the direction of the weft of the fabric, said warp threads being inelastic and at least some of said weft threads in each group being elastic and stretchable and contractible in the fabric, said elastic weft threads being partially stretched and under tension in their normally contracted condition in the fabric, said groups of crossing portions of said warp threads lying close to each other in the fabric when said elastic weft threads are in contracted condition.

LOUIS DE ROON. 

